Slivers of History: Day Tour Around Seoul

One of the more wonderful things about my experience studying abroad in Seoul, South Korea, is the access I have to several historical places across the city. South Korea as a whole follows and enforces the Cultural Heritage Protection Act, which protects historical buildings and monuments from destruction. Ultimately, this means that a simple walk even a few kilometers away from your home base reveals incredible sights to see. From temples, palaces, hanok (traditional homes), city gates and fortifications, shrines, altars, royal tombs, famous mountains and plenty of other cultural and historical sites, Seoul has it all, with most of these stunning displays being located right in the middle of the hustle and bustle of everyday life and modern city architecture. Therefore, because of the accessibility of such, a meaningful and extensive day trip to even just a few districts exposes you to many points in history, resulting in an extremely rewarding experience.

From my recent day trip around Seodaemun (central Seoul), I visited Deoksugung Palace, Dongnimmun Gate and saw the Statue of Patriotic Martyr, Yu Gwan-sun. Let's dive into the significance of these three places!

Deoksugung Palace

In 1593, the Deoksugung Palace was Prince Wolston's private residence. Prince Wolston was the elder brother of King Seongjong, the ninth king of the Joseon period. The palace moved through periods where it was used as a temporary or secondary palace, with it becoming a formal palace in 1611 and then being reverted back to a secondary palace afterward. In 1897, it was used as the Imperial Palace of Korea by Gojon, which resulted in its expansion in size. Unfortunately, fires in 1904 resulted in the loss of much of the architecture on the grounds, and Japanese colonialism also played a substantial role in reducing its size. The main restoration work has been ongoing since 2007, but other rebuilding work had also been done earlier in the 18th century. The name of the palace has changed several times throughout its history, originally being named Jeongneung-dong Haenggung, then becoming Gyeongungung Palace. Finally, the complex was named Deoksugung in 1907.

Deoksugung Palace struck me with awe immediately, even from just the appearance of the outer walls. A huge reason this occurred was likely because of the wonderment of such a historical place existing right in the middle of modern Seoul. The contrast between city and history makes it feel as though one has transcended time. This palace is truly a collection of time, with its bright colors pointing to the rebuilding efforts that have taken place. Additionally, the presence of two Western-style buildings on the grounds demonstrates Western influence, Korea's direction toward modernization and its intention of expanding interaction with foreign powers. It is a sight to see, indeed!

Dongnimmun Gate

Dongnimmun Gate, which is also known as Independence Gate, was built in 1897. It is meant to represent Korea’s independence, but this symbol is not fully present due to Korea's lack of sovereignty, even during the gate’s construction. Instead, it seems, it is a structure that commemorates Korea’s move and fight toward independence, not necessarily its achievement of such. The gate came about through the introduction of the Donghak religion, which enunciated equality among all people, especially those affected by the rigid and unfair social hierarchy. The Gabo Reform, which involved reforms in slavery and class systems and reflected the end of an inferior relationship with China, also played a role in the ability to create space for such a structure. Ultimately, the monument was built to signify Korea’s continued fight for independence.

Statue of Patriotic Martyr Yu Gwan-sun

The Statue of Patriotic Martyr, Yu Gwan-sun, is located in Seodaemun Independence Park in Seoul and was built in 2021. This statue depicts a young girl, nearly 18-years-old, who demonstrated immense bravery in the movement against Japanese colonial rule, which lasted from 1910 to 1945. She is well known as an independence fighter who played a substantial role in organizing the March 1 Manse Movement of 1919. This movement was a peaceful protest of several hundred that was participated in by around 2 million Koreans who demanded independence with the saying “dongnip manse” or “long live Korean independence.” This movement resulted in horrific counterattacks by the Japanese, resulting in the killing and arrest of several Koreans, one of them being Yu Gwan-sun, who was imprisoned, tortured and eventually killed at Seodaemun Prison. This statue, just a short walk from the Dongnimmin Gate and very close to the prison where Gwan-sun was killed, adds an important remembrance to the long and difficult struggle of Korea’s fight for independence, which continues even to this day.

From just these three monuments, much is revealed about Korea’s past. Korea’s past is not a past of ease and certainly doesn’t lack complexity. Simple observation of such structures and monuments colors the views, ways and values of contemporary life in Korea. It is of extreme value that these structures and monuments have been preserved and created in order to acknowledge the tumultuous history of Korea.